... In other words, cabin fever

With five (or maybe four?) days to go, I think I've finally had my fill of Prague. I love this city, and I always will, but it's time to go. I miss America, I miss my friends, I miss... everything. The Czech people have never been particularly friendly to me but as the days dwindle down, it becomes almost unbearable.

There is so much that I will miss about Prague, but most of all the magical look it takes on at night. I recommend this city to everyone... no matter where I traveled, it was always nice to come home to Prague. But now it's just time to come home. I have no work to do, not much else to see, and it seems silly to buy groceries. So now I'm just spending money to keep myself fed.

I'm trying to change my flight to Friday instead of Saturday. I will not be depressed if I have to wait until Saturday but I cannot deny this "ants in the pants" feeling. There are so many faces I can't wait to see, hugs I can't wait to dole out. Stories to tell. Laughs to share.

I miss my life. My other life. Yes, the stressful, overwhelming, ridiculously busy, full of responsibilities life. But my productive life nonetheless.

We will meet again, Prague.

All my love,
S

Vienna down, and 12 days to go

I was pretty good with updating every Monday, but unfortunately I simply could not keep up. But alas! A new trip to talk about!

So my trip to Vienna was my last European adventure while here in Prague and I have to say, it was excellent. The weather was perfect (if not a bit too hot), the food was delicious, the city gorgeous. Big, open, boulevards and majestic buildings. I was smitten, really. English was spoken EVERYWHERE and for the most part, everyone was quite nice - in fact, a little too nice. While at the Naschmarkt on Saturday, some old man jumped out behind the vegetable stand and demanded a picture with us... and then kissed me on the cheek. Certainly not my idea of friendship.

On Friday we went to Schonbrunn, the summer palace of the Hapsburgs and I had such a good time. Normally I don't like to be kept indoors when the weather is so nice but the audio guide really gave a good glimpse into the lives of the royal family and the palace was SO BEAUTIFUL. And we saw St. Stephan's Church which was beautiful but I'm exhausted from churhces at this point. Then we had some fantastic falafel, saw the crown jewels at the Imperial Treasury (we should have gotten the guide, everything was written in German), and later that night went for a traditional Viennese dinner of weiner schnitzel. The biggest portion of my life. Each of us got an order and each of us got two gigantic cutlets. Mind boggling how someone could eat all of that.

Saturday was much less touristy. We went to Naschmarkt to grab some kebap and I almost cried at the abundance of food there. Food. Was. Everywhere. I spent 8 euros on a variety of pickled vegetables stuffed with cheese and later had the kebap I've been salivating for. Oh! But before Naschmarkt, we grabbed some coffee and a pastry from Demel, a ritzy bakery that allows visitors to look into the kitchen. I was fascinated. And I got to watch a pastry chef make an appel strudel as I ate mine. I had a melange which tasted a whole lot like a cappuccino to me but still - an overall positive experience. For dinner we had authentic Japanese and I had sachertorte from Cafe Sacher, across the street from the Opera House.

We were only in Vienna for two days and with more time, I could have done a LOT more things. But I went there to relax, and relax I surely did. But I cannot wait to be back. Still not a fan of the German language, but I enjoyed the respect I got - something that I find impossible to get here in Prague.

Speaking of Prague, I officially have 12 days before I am back in JFK and it's been a great few months here. I am a paragraph away from finishing one paper, two days away from a presentation, and will eventually start and finish my other paper. But basically... I'm done.

I was walking through Old Town today and I made sure to look extra hard at the buildings around me. Prague has left its mark on me. It has its flaws, sure, but what city doesn't?

Still, I'm excited to go back home. I have so many friends to see, and a lot to get used to. But for a long time, life will be in three categories: before Prague, in Prague, and after.

S

It's the home stretch! (One month to go)

I apologize for the 2 week+ delay that has occurred. Last week was pretty hectic, I was a tour guide for 7 days straight but it was wonderful hearing from my parents (and their friends) that Prague was: unbelievable AND a good study abroad choice on my part. I am patting myself on the back as I write this.

With the hiatus, however, comes new pictures and stories!

As I wrote in my last entry, the weather has finally gotten nice. Today is a bad example it was raining and hailing (literally), but overall it's mid 60's gorgeous every single day. Makes me feel guilty when I decide to stay in. And with the nice weather, I've explored more of Prague and because of that... I really don't want to leave. Not because I'm so in love with Prague -- I mean I am, but that's not the point -- but because life here is so stress-less. One of my papers is due in June. As in after I leave Prague. Another paper is due in 3 weeks but is not to go under 3 pages. I think I can handle that... last time I wrote a 3 page paper I think I was in middle school. Maybe freshman year of college. Sure there are some students here that have lots of work to do, but I'm not to be bunched in with that group of people. I've got peanuts for work.

But as I sit here, trying to plan out my summer and crossing my fingers for my fall housing to work out, I think : oh man, life in the states is way more stressful. It's actually stressful. Once school combines with sorority, a part-time job, a possible internship, and interviewing for co-op, I know I will think back to these very days. And I get it. I get why people come back so much calmer from studying abroad. Our worries are minimal, if present at all. Okay, sometimes I worry about if I want to go to a NEW bar or one that I'm already used to. Hard life. But I could never get away with what I do (or lack thereof) in the states. Back in the good ol' United States of America, I need to work. I need to focus on school because my GPA will be seen by those grad schools I will inevitably be applying to. In a few years. I need to learn how to balance being super involved with going to the gym, napping, AND having a social life. I'll manage, I have for years... but I cringe at the thought. It's true.

But onto fun things!

Having my parents here was a treat. It was so good to see familiar faces AND not having to worry about money because everything was paid for woo hoo! I was also able to do the touristy things I've been avoiding like the plague. I actually stood around and waited for the Astronomical Clock to do its thing. And I walked down Parizska street a million times because it's that amazing and saw the Spanish synogauge and finally found the peeing men statue. No picture yet, but it will come with time. Still haven't been up Petrin Hill but I did hang out at the base and read. It smells good outside, Prague has exploded with flowers.

As a true Sudit, my dad was just as obsessed with the Easter Market as I was - it's all due to the fantastic bratwurst they grilled up on REAL grills outside:
I took my sister to an actual bar, she was super excited about being able to drink - despite the whole being WAY under 21 factor. But she came out! And she drank alcohol in my presence! And then I turned 21 although it really doesn't matter in Prague. And turning 21, with most of the people who love me most, was amazing. Really. I got to do everything I wanted to do! I ate carrot cake at Bakeshop and went to Perpetuum for the best duck I've ever had and then topped it off at Tretter's with a couple of cosmos in the company of my mom and sister.

Before the second half of the group came, I went to Cesky Krumlov with my dad and sister which was nice but we were there for way too long. It's a cool little medieval city, but certainly not one that warrants 8 hours. Still, it's nice to get out of Prague once in a while but still stay in the Czech Republic:
And with the second half of the group, I once again walked through the castle and this time entered St. Vitus Cathedral which was pretty spectacular and reminded me of Notre Dame but was more awesome just because I live so close by. And because of the insane amount of walking i did, I am pretty comfortable with the majority of Old Town. Ah, it's good to feel comfortable and adjusted in a place with streets that stop and start in a language you can barely understand.

I'm having a great time here. I'm relaxed, looking forward to Anna's arrival, and booked a hostel for my trip ro Vienna in a few weeks. All is well on the Czech front!

S

And I finally don't want to leave

Strudel!
A few of us at Radost FX Thursday night
Making my way down from the castle.

Took a while, but the clouds have finally parted and sunlight is what has been waking me up the past three days. It's the Prague I've been asking for. Don't-need-to-wear-a-jacket Prague. Ow-my-head-hurts-and-I-need-me-some-sunglasses Prague. I-don't-want-to-be-inside Prague.

Sorry it's taken me so long to blog. Without traveling it's hard to find important things to fill blog pages with but I suppose there are a few things worth mentioning. I've been able to cross several eateries/lounges off my list. And I followed in the footsteps of Samantha Brown, that perky blonde tour guide on the Travel Channel, and found Prague's best strudel over in Praha 3. It was delicious and ENORMOUS but the cold weather cooled it down really quickly and we all know there's nothing like a hot strudel.

Classes are... going. Truthfully, they're a waste of my time and most of the time I'm thinking of my future life in the South End come fall but I go because attendance is taken and we're only allowed one absence. I'll take advantage of my get out of jail free card when my dad/sister come and later on my cousin. I am so excited to be reunited with my family especially now that Prague is so amazing. Anyway, I don't have any midterms and one of my final papers is 3 pages, another is due in June (?), and another is a presentation and I'm required to write two pages. Really tough stuff. 

I finally got to check out the Prague Castle for myself last week. There were swarms of people so I just walked around outside but it's definitely worth seeing a few more times. And I stumbled into the Prague Half Marathon as well... cool? I also went for some traditional Czech food at this awesome cafe by the kolej and had some of the most delicious beer yet in Prague. 

I've been having fun, keeping myself busy. Worrying much less about money and I'm trying to pay more attention to staying healthy. Though I am starting to walk much more my indoor time has given me a bit of a belly. But I'm in Europe. I should not be worrying about things that can be fixed when I go back home.

Oh wow, it's April. My last full month here in Prague. It's a shame it's taken me so long to LOVE it here but I have to say that the weather played a huge role. But things are better now. Even though the city is filling up quickly with annoying tourists, there's an overall happier vibe. Czechs still don't like Americans and I am still constantly struggling with refraining from cursing at these people... but in a way I guess the American students have infiltrated Prague. The dirty looks get tiring though... and aren't we helping their economy? We're the ones that are actually giving money to Charles University and I'm hoping they can take that to fix the place up... if not pay the professors a bit more than the bus drivers. It's true, my professor told me that she gets paid less than bus drivers. I suppose education ranks lower than transportation on the importance scale?

Regardless I'm really starting to learn my way around the city and I don't dare bring a map around with me. I'll figure it out. Prague really isn't that big of a city. At least not the important parts. 

I saw He's Just Not That Into You last night because it's a cheaper alternative than going out for drinks and though I thought the movie was pretty bad overall, it did make me feel better about not being "that" girl... anymore. And it made me feel like I'm in a much better place in my life right now. I don't worry about much, there's nothing to really worry about other than the superficial things such as how I look and if my love handles are growing exponentially. They probably are. And I do hope that can be fixed. But for now I need not to worry about not being able to know the caloric value of what I'm eating, about having no income, about grocery shopping being such a process. There's no heartbreak to be dealt with, no stress with school, no drama, no tears, no drinking age, no problems really. 

And what makes me even happier is that I'm not sad to go back either. Granted that's not for another 7 weeks but the point is that my life here isn't better than my life back at home. I've managed to find the equilibrium, that happy equilibrium. Even though I won't be surrounded by European awesomeness when I'm back in the states, I'll be surrounded by people who know me, who have known me before, during, and after Prague. I'll be in a new apartment, newly 21, back on my cross-Boston walks, back in classes that actually mean something, in Boston in the SUMMER!, taking those dreaded-but-necessary gym classes, back with my cousin, back to work. And then I'll be living in the South End come fall, in the apartment I've been dreaming about, with a roommate who is equally as excited as I am about our new neighborhood.

I don't want this feeling to ever go away. I'm feeling good.

S.

We're here. We're Gehman. Get used to it.

So I got back from Germany last night and I have to say: I liked it. I liked it a lot. I had some pretty negative things to say about the country before arriving: Germany is ugly, the people are mean, the language is terrible, and they probably still hate Jews. Well I'm still not Team German in terms of languages but it does grow on you after a while. And as for the hating-Jews part... I didn't feel that way at all. Preconceived notions are bad. I must learn to rid myself of them.

But seriously. Berlin is so cool. So cool. It's hard to say what drew me so much to it. It's a pretty laid back city. Lots of history, yes, even lots of bad history... but there's so much... NEW. So many modern art galleries with paintings I actually want to look at and gorgeous modern buildings made of glass and big broad squares. And it wasn't pretentious. I guess a lot of my feelings may be stemming from Paris the weekend before which I liked but I really loved Berlin.

(Synogague, it's a big one and it's important. But the name escapes me.)

The tour was okay, relatively painless. We went to most of the hot spots, the coolest being the parking lot that paved over the bunker of Adolf Hitler. And that's what I loved so much about Berlin. Even though there's history everywhere, even in Prague, the history here is tangible. The Holocaust wasn't a century ago, it was 60 years ago. That's two generations ago. My grandparents went through it. It still reverberates through me and I feel it at every memorial, every museum, every lecture. And there I was, walking the streets that 60 some odd years ago the Nazis walked, Hitler walked.. you get the point. It was wonderful and horrible. Simultaneously.

But back to the positive! I saw the Berlin Wall which was disappointing but necessary to see. And though the Story of Berlin museum was overall a waste of my 6 euros (the next day), it was pretty interesting to see what a real life bunker? nuclear bomb shelter? looked like. Living in Europe has brought out the history lover in me. I knew it was in there somewhere.

We found a Dunkin' Donuts! This is by no means exciting to those in the states but DD is not to be found ANYWHERE. Starbucks, sure, but Dunkin' Donuts? So of course I felt it was necessary to get myself a cup o' Joe from DD, a French Vanilla one to be specific, and the lady attempts to squirt syrup into my drink but doesn't really get much. Knowing I'll be paying for this either way I ask her to just squirt in some Hazelnut. And then I got the German stink eye which is far scarier than any other stink eye. I felt diminished. And really stupid. And she put milk in my coffee instead of cream and... enough. I don't want to talk about it anymore. It was a bad (expensive) experience.

The traffic lights are actual men wearing hats which I stupidly thought resembled long hair from afar which resulted in many people laughing at me. I wasn't wearing my glasses. And secretly hoped it was long flowing hair.
And curry wurst deserves its own paragraph:

Our tour guide Neil (who had the worst case of chapped lips I've ever seen) told us about curry wurst, which is really a sausage covered in ketchup and sprinkled with curry powder. It is divine. It may sound disgusting, but it is so so good, especially after a few rounds of mojitos. The woman at the counter may have been HELGA FROM SVEEEEDEN in another life but in this life she is that German lady who is really large but can serve you your curry wurst in 15 seconds. And will say bon appetit for good measure. I loved this woman. Apparently we lived down the street from one of the most famous curry wurst joints called Curry 36. And there were constantly people there, no matter what. Even after my falafel dinner Saturday night, I could not resist the temptation that is curry wurst. I had two. If I don't end up doing PR for high end hotels/restaurants in my life, I would be happy to travel and eat local food. Preferably with camera and a salary but we shall see about that. Amazing.

Saturday morning we drove to Potsdam and went to Cecilienhof which is the palace in which the Potsdam Treaty was signed. Luckily the audio tour was short and sweet and there was a lot to look at. I only managed one illegal picture but it's shoddy and isn't worth putting up here. But again I was surrounded by history and really that's what Germany is all about. Ahem, Gehmany.

We were then dropped off in the center of the city by the broken church (Jenn and I made jokes but it is in no way funny and it is sad that 90% of Berlin was flattened to the ground) and eventually made our way to the Story of Berlin museum which was mostly a waste of time but had its moments. Saturday night called for Reichstag! Such a cool building and I really appreciate their using the motif of transparency to show that they are, in fact, honest people. Or something like that. Whatever the case, it was a gorgeous building but it was really far too cold for my attire.

We missed happy hour by 15 minutes, had a mildly alcoholic drink each, and off I was for my falafel... and later on night 2 of curry wurst. Still just as good as the night before. This time, pictures were taken.

Despite the worst fatigue I've felt in a while (I would chalk it up to three weekends in a row of intense traveling), we all went out separate ways. Jenn and I had decided that the Pergamon was absolutely necessary and it was SO WORTH IT. They reconstructed the side of what they believe was the Pergamon altar and the amount of stuff they found is just unreal. Thankfully an audio guide was included in the price and I was able to sit and listen to the story unfold about the battles with the Greek gods. Sometimes I would get up and walk around the museum. This took much energy. Still though I did my fair shair of touring the museum and it was seriously one of the coolest things I've ever seen. It's up there with St. Peters.

Dresden was the second half of the day and I would have enjoyed it much more if it wasn't the windiest day ever. Unfortunately I was cranky and cold and didn't take in as much of Dresden as I would have liked to... but it reminded me a lot of Prague. And I keep looking at churches and I don't want to. Give me synagogues, mosques, huts with a stick figure... but no more churches. I need a break. Still though, a cool little city with a freakish amount of Russians strolling about.



Now. I finally get to relax and enjoy Prague for the first time in several weeks. Weather still hasn't cleared up but here's to crossing fingers for this weekend.

I can't wait for my family to visit so I can share all of this with them. As in the city of Prague, my life, my expenses...

S.

28 hours of travel was worth it to see the Eiffel Tower

So as some of you may know, I took a 14 hour bus ride to and from Paris. The ride back was harder, we left Paris at 3PM and I was full of adrenaline from actually finding the bus (it was not at the bus station, just on the street) and full from my greasy Middle Eastern sandwich. I miss Middle Eastern food.

Getting there was scary, as any new international city usually is. I was dropped off on a street in the 10th district when I expected to be dropped off in Gallieni, the bus station. This completely thwarted my perfectly planned out itinerary to get to the hostel. But I managed to get to the hostel just fine, sweaty and really smelly. My first thoughts of Paris were "wow, it's really beautiful here, all of the windows have beautiful wrought iron terraces... I feel inadequate." And that's basically how I continued to feel for the duration of the trip.


Paris is very opulent, especially so in the city center (which I guess is to be expected). I felt that even in Montmarte, it was the Upper East Side in NYC, just elongated... huge glass windows, beautiful curtains, and so many dogs... But for such a classy city, it was hard not to notice the smelliest subway stations (very comparable to NYC) and dog poop everywhere. As our tour guide told us, "as you will notice, Parisians don't like to clean up after their dogs." No, no they don't. While the dogs are beautifully groomed and adorable, the image is tainted after dodging more than a few piles during my three days in Paris.

So by the time I was showered and ready to take on the day, it was about 4PM and I was in serious need of food... I'd avoided leaving the bus in order to catch up on some much needed sleep and was STARVING by 4. Luckily the man at reception spoke perfect English (and was, in fact, American) and directed me to this little place across the street that served me some fantastic Lebanese food... can't get that in Prague. I felt foolish just hanging out in the hostel waiting for the rest of the party to show up so I went on a walk and eventually stumbled into the Sacre Coeur. At this point, I'm kind of churched out... especially after Rome but I can still appreciate beautiful things. The view from up top was really nice though I couldn't find the Eiffel Tower from way up there. And as I made my way inside, this French man immediately appeared next to me and thought that I was the kind of American girl completely enthralled by a French accent. He creeped me out actually, and I told him I would stay in the church and listen to the mass instead of going with him to see the "painters" in Monmarte. Before I went out to explore Paris, the man at reception warned me about perverts. Guess I found one of my own.

There was also an Israeli living at the hostel who took a liking to me because he overheard I was Jewish and took me for a walk around Montmarte and took me to a place where you could see the Eiffel Tower all lit up from a distance. He bought me a drink and we discussed how different life is in America. It was interesting to hear an Israeli say he never wants to move back there again and will stay in Paris... despite having to learn a completely new language. That's one thing I can say I really love about being abroad... the people you run into are so completely fascinating to me and live what I deem really exciting lives. I met a Lithuanian girl yesterday from my Czech class and as we walked back to the metro together I couldn't stop asking her questions about life there... and what brought her to Prague... and I can't get over how all of these students learn English as little kids... Maybe it's just me.

Friday was a day meant for touring. We found a flyer in our hostel that said FREE TOUR which we were immediately drawn to.. sure enough, it's a free tour and the tour guide only works off of tips. We missed the first tour but were luckily able to make it to the 1 PM tour with full intentions of going to the Louvre after. The tour was 3 1/2 hours and man I felt it. So much walking. But it was good to kind of learn the lay of the city. A few things we just passed by but I guess I wasn't expecting too much from a free tour. And it was nice to catch up on some French history. The tour guide was handsomely rewarded.

I should also mention that we got crepes in a cone before the tour began and also found a Starbucks for Chris. So all parties were happy. I should also mention that Starbucks in Paris require you to make a purchase in order to get the password for the bathroom. So hold onto those receipts, friends.
So the tour ended and by that time we were all Eiffel-Tower crazy and made the long walk over and it was so worth it. Probably one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen, especially at night. We waited a significant amount of time to pay an obscenely large sum of 12 euros to go up top for about 15 minutes but it was worth it. When in Paris...
We collectively decided that the Louvre wasn't necessary and went to Musee D'orsay instead and even though I usually hate museums, the audio tour was really helpful and I'm thinking I should start doing that from now on. I was also proud of myself for recognizing certain artists and certain works of art. Then I saw Whistler's Mother and realized I recognized it from one of those Mr. Bean movies. But it's such a cool museum and I'm certain that I walked out of there considerably more intelligent. Or at least aware.

After the museum we all decided that one could not leave Paris without going to Notre Dame but unfortuantely all I think of when I think Notre Dame is the Hunchback. We went inside and it was perfectly beautiful and I appreciated it's Gothic architecture (thanks, Chris) but like I said.. I'm churched out.
The group split up and Chris and I walked down Rue Saint Honore which is the most expensive street in Paris, followed by the Champs Elysee. I was on a quest to find the Louis Vuitton store which we never made it to... but saw every other designer store in Paris. We later learned that the Louis Vuitton Megastore is not on Rue Saint Honore but on the Champs Elysee. Foiled. Also, I had big plans to get a falafel from L'as du falafel but then I realized it was a Saturday and that the entire Jewish Quarter was not open for business. Foiled twice. It was a good walk, however.

We reconvened later that night in Montmarte and looked at Moulin Rouge for a good two minutes for before exploring what I can only describe as dozens of sex shops. The fondue place I had so wanted to go to was of course packed and we ended our last night in Paris with an inexpensive dinner and some well deserved sleep.

Berlin this weekend and then I finally get to rest in the city I'm growing to love more and more as the sky clears up.

S.

In my past life, I was Italian.

Inside St. Peters... too many things to look at at once.


It's true. I'm pretty certain that in my past life I was an Italian. A constantly eating Italian, on a serious journey to find the best gelatto, the best pizza, the best cappuccino. And my name was still Simona. I met a Simona in Rome, she's one of the Italian teachers and today as I paid for my AMAZING cheeseburger at Fame Nero, the beautiful owner asked if I was Italian after telling him my name.

Italy is the stuff dreams are made of.

I guess everyone finds that one place when they're studying abroad that just leaves their mouth constantly agape. That was Rome for me. And I have a hunch it will be the rest of Italy, when I finally go back and see Florence and Venice and Milan and Tuscany and Capri and Sorrento and... you get my point. The people are full of love, the streets are lined with food, and the language. Kill me now and send me to a heaven where they speak in Italian. It's not just the words, it's the rhythm in which they are said. Beautiful. Bellisimo!

Thursday night we all went out to dinner and I experienced my first Italian meal. It was good but it was only to get better... as I would later learn. A few of us stayed out to grab a drink (Peroni is good, but Czech beer is better) and then called it a night.

Spanish Steps

Trevi Fountain!!
Friday was spent sightseeing. I got to see the Trevi fountain (uh, amazing), and the Wedding Cake, and the Spanish steps, and part of the Roman Forum and there was just a lot of walking involved. The highlight of Friday was the cooking class I was so graciously invited to. One of the best things I've ever done. Even though there were 14 people, I still had a fantastic time though I wish I could have done more food preparation. The menu: homemade lasagna, veal wrapped around mortadella, cooked Roman broccoli, and some custard dessert that tasted like melted strawberry shortcake with lady fingers dipped in pineapple juice. Love. Love. Love.



Saturday began with a wonderful lunch at a closeby piazza basking in the sun. I bought a bronze Om that I fully intend on nailing to my wall back at home. I'm all about peace and harmony these days. Om...

We went out fully intending to "rage" to ring in Dan's 21st birthday... but it seems as though my friends and I are the quiet type. Birthday boy fell asleep at the table. A raging 21st indeed. Still though, a lot was accomplished after dinner. Like peanut butter and Nutella crepes. And coconut and Nutella gelatto. A country for me, for sure.

Flash forward to Sunday: MAJOR SIGHTSEETING. We're talking the main hotspots aka Colosseum, Roman Forum, and the Vatican. St. Peter's Basilica BLEW my mind. Pictures don't do it justice. Neither do words. Absolutely, hands down, the most incredible thing I've ever seen. The Colosseum and Roman Forum were of course amazing but relatively speaking, St. Peter's is just not something that can be described. I shall stop trying.

View of St Peters from afar.

It's good to be back in Prague but my Czech Theatre class (I HAD to drop film) comes with a bit of work. Between actually going to class and reading the works, we're required to go see shows. I'm happy to do so, but it can get difficult scheduling around shows especially as new ones are popping up all of the time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a 4.0 this semester. I told my art professor that I'd like to write a paper on erotic art. You read that right, mom.

MAMA!

I wish I was back in Italy with the bestest friends a girl could ask for... but alas there's Paris to take on.


S.

My days before Rome

Awesome picture I snapped when I wandered into a church.

So I leave for Rome in three days and I am so SO excited... except I just realized that I left one of two important pairs of jeans at "home" and didn't realize it until I got to the laundromat. Damn the laundry gods! But onto more important aka serious things:

Classes started last Tuesday and they're interesting, for lack of a better word. It's been a long time since I've taken classes with NO reference to business WHATSOEVER. But let's recap, shall we? Tuesdays I have a film class that concentrates on women film directors from Eastern Europe. We watched a film called "Daisies" and it left me feeling very uncomfortable. I guess there's debate over whether the film praises feminism or not, but... it was really odd. Really trippy and focuses on these two girls who value nothing in life. Not men, not food, not nature. But mostly not food. Clearly the part that bothered me the most (obviously).

I have two hours between my first and second class so I spent it at Bohemia Bagel, that haven for us American students, furiously scribbling my reaction to that movie. Then came time for Anthropology of the Image, a class I really dig. The professor took us to this exhibit called the Prinzhorn collection, which is named after the German art historian and psychiatrist who offered a new way to look at the artwork of his mentally ill patients. It was really fascinating. I'm not a big art person but I love that my classes open my eyes to things I otherwise would not have found on my own. High five! Should be a good class.

My third and final class is called Global Perspectives on Critical Education and it's... a little out there. Even for me. But I was told the professor is really interesting and I'm interested in education for the oppressed. And that's basically it. I have to show up for each 3 hour class and then I get to come home Wednesday evening and hang out until Tueday morning. Really.

From left to right : Adam, Jenn, Carrie, Me, and Jess at Al Capone's Wednesday night

This weekend was a little lonely because mostly everyone was out traveling. I decided I needed to get out of my cave (there really is no better name for it... wait, maybe prison cell?) so on Friday I went to the Sex Machines Museum because that's really the only kind of museum I could get through without having to leave early for a lunch break. It's sad, isn't it? It was a little overpriced but overall I was pretty interested the entire time. Before the museum I went out to lunch with one of my roommates and while the food was great, there were pitchers of FREE TAP WATER at all of the tables. It's the strange things that you really start missing. I also miss cold water, as something happened to our sink and now washing dishes also means braving second degree burns. But that is neither here nor there.

I went to go see Slumdog Millionaire Saturday night because a: it's cheaper here in Prague and b: I really didn't want to go out drinking - okay, I didn't have anyone to go drinking with. But Slumdog was totally fantastic and I'm still thinking about the awesome soundtrack. Go see it.

The weather is finally reaching the 40s and hopefully the sky will clear up ASAP. The gray weather really gets to you after a while. I find it kind of hard to leave and explore when napping sounds like such a better idea. Still, it will happen. There's still a lot of Prague left to see.

What Prague looks like on a nice day (Tyn Church)

And I finally booked my (bus) ticket to Paris. Oh yea, 14 hour bus ride... but it means seeing some besties in one of the most romantic cities in the world. I cannot wait to be classy in Paris. I imagine running down the streets, baguette in hand.

No, really. This is a picture that needs to be taken of me. Me. Running. In Paris. Baguette in tow.

S

Cau Czech Intensive, Ahoj... Everything Else

I did a lot of drinking this week... sorry, mom.

I went to U Fleku, Prague's oldest pub, with a friend I made on the flight back to Prague from London. Armed with a map, I was actually able to make it from the Marriott. And then I rewarded myself by drinking two of the most expensive beers I've had in Prague.. at a hefty 60 crowns each (less than $3). The place was cool albeit a bit of a tourist trap: long wooden tables, a couple of dudes playing the accordion and a tuba? trombone? Why do I not remember what either look like? Regardless, this place had some tasty homemade beer and I enjoyed drinking it (and the conversation) in a building dating back to 1499. You'll be hard pressed to find that in the USA...

Anyway, I had to call it a (relatively) early night because I had my Czech final on Thursday. It was harder than I expected but I made out just fine. I got an A, Ma. Overall the class wasn't too bad but I'm really glad it's over. I'm interested to see what "real" classes will be like. Tomorrow I have my first two (of three... I'm really working hard this semester) classes: one is a class showing films by women directors and the other is called Anthropology of the Image. I've never taken an art class before but I was told good things about the professor.

Back to my weekend. On Friday I met up with said friend again and we went out to this bar called Tretter's. According to the website it's a New York bar and overall it was absolutely fantastic. The drinks are pricey for Prague standards, starting at 135 crowns for a Cosmo but man these bartenders mean business. They are artists of alcohol and each drink was absolutely fantastic... all 5 or 6. I may have lost count. It was an older crowd, many foreigners all ready to drop some dough on some well crafted cocktails. It was standing room only at first but we eventually got a seat next to a very uh, friendly Swiss man.

On my way to Tretter's (again, using a map... I'm getting really good), I discovered that my school is in an absolutely amazing location. Just behind Charles University is Paris St., which I guess is equivalent to the 5th of New York. I can't wait to show my family. I also passed the Old Jewish quarter and I am so excited to check it out once the weather gets a little bit nicer. It's been rainy and drab and not okay.

Prague is absolutely magical at night.

Nicole, Kelly (one of my roommates), and I at U Sudu

Saturday night I met up with my roommates and other friends at U Sudu and the only way to really describe this place is... the past home of dragons. Dungeons galore. After making our way downstairs I was relieved to see tons of tables and tons of people hanging out, drinking some Pilsner. You know, the usual. I brought my friend again as he wanted to have a good time for his last night in Prague and he was not disappointed. It was overall a fantastic night except this Czech girl that came to meet with us got her purse stolen... I ended up finding it in the bathroom but everything improtant was taken out. I was really sad for her. She left her purse on the floor underneath her chair and still some ass managed to take it and rob her. I guess that's as dangerous as Prague gets, but still... that really blows. I would sob. I would sob uncontrollably if my stuff got stolen. This explains why I try not to make any eye contact with people (namely men) when I'm on the metro or the tram. It's been engrained in my head to keep my stuff safe so I don't take any chances and hold my purse to me like it's a child I'll one day have.

That was a really deep simile.

Aside from that, things are good. Unfortunately my Vienna trip was cancelled so I'll be in town next weekend while essentially everyone else will be traveling. I suppose it's not the worst thing, Rome is quickly approaching!

Oh and I've been getting really crafty with my food here. I made chicken cutlets last night without the handy help of a meat tenderizer and bought some limes to make a sort of citrus-y sauce. I really miss having an oven. And you know, Peapod. This whole process of carrying all my groceries back with an unsexy backpack is kind of exhausting. But I'm kind of roughing it here in Prague.

And it's all good.

Here's to a good first week of classes, and whatever this weekend brings.

S.

My post Post-London

Maybe I put too much effort into uploading my pictures online because this has taken me forever to get together. I could do without posting pictures on the blog but I know my mom reads this semi-frequently and luckily I have a mom who hasn't joined the Facebook ranks. Let's hope it stays that way.

So as you all know, I was in London this weekend to ring in Erin's 21st birthday. I had a fantastic time. There's nothing quite like having three of your best friends greeting you (with a name tag) as you make your way into the gigantic Liverpool Street Station. It was wonderful. Though I do love being in Prague and I've met some incredible girls that I'm quite certain will stay my friends well after this trip, it was amazing to run into the arms (cheesy) of friends who knew me "before Prague."

I decided to be a budget-conscious traveler and took public transportation to Ruzyne airport. That's tram, metro, and then a bus to the terminal. For the most part it went over smoothly except for boarding the bus... I had to stand. And I ended up accidentally pushing a Czech woman who gave me the stink eye for the entire half hour bus ride. And I gave her one right back. She smelled. I am so thankful that English can be found in all airports because my Czech is not strong enough to get around an airport sans English. The flight was painless and coming into Stansted was breath of fresh air. English. Everywhere. YES!

After meeting with Dan, Lindsey, and Erin at the station, it was time to take out some money and then time for food. I was hungry. They don't feed you on EasyJet in case you were wondering. We spotted London Bridge at night (gorgeous) and headed over to the bar where Erin's roommate James would be playing later that night. Dinner was greeted with some beers and my first taste of an English pie. So. Good. And again: the menu was in English. We went downstairs after and hung out and caught up and watched James's act. It was good stuff. I also learned that night that I will be joining Dan and Lindsey at their cooking class... IN ROME. Excitement could not be contained.

We took a cab back to Erin's and Erin turned 21 in the cab. And they drive on the wrong side of the road I don't care what you people say. The right side... is the right side. That is all.

Saturday was fantastic. I don't want to bore everyone with details (I seem to have blabbed on before), but we surprisingly got to see many of the tourist stops without the help of a double decker bus. That saved us 20 pounds right there. The weather was perfect and coffees in tow, I was able to stay awake for EVERYTHING. From Buckingham Palace to Big Ben to the ultimate touristy telephone picture to Picadilly Circus to... well as much as we could fit in approximately 5 hours. And I had fish and chips for lunch!


Speaking of that : I had no appetite for the first few days here in Prague but once my nerves settled down my appetite picked up HARDCORE. Between the few beers that I have a week and my inability to just eat salads and chicken day in and day out... I might be getting chubby in the CR. But in the words of my small friend Robin, "eh, you'll just lose it when you go back." Such wise words.



I had strawberry beer for the first time at a pub before dinner, a crazy Chinese dinner to ring in Erin's birthday, a pub after that, and then the sweatiest dancing ever at O Bar. Unfortunately it took waiting 45 minutes in the freezing London weather for a bus that didn't come until a few minutes before we got a super expensive cab back to Erin's. Gah London is so expensive.


But so clean. And yet it's beause the cleaning crew comes out at night as the bars are closing and people are stumbling their way (literally) to cabs or buses. It was the craziest thing I've ever seen, I felt like 95% of the city was completely wrecked, tripping, walking barefoot, or hanging out against buildings - because walking just is not an option. WILD.

Still, it was good to come back to Prague. I did miss it. I like the girls I've met here.


Life is good, even with a lighter and lighter wallet as the days pass.

S.

A brief hiatus

I'm flying out to London tomorrow for Erin's birthday weekend (and consequently, Valentine's Day) but I will be back Sunday evening and will fill everyone in! And of course I'll discuss my first week of Czech classes.

Cau!

My right hand is frozen - but I must blog

So to update (not that there is a ton):

Because this weekend was a free weekend to check out the National Gallery exhibits (and I'm broke), I decided to go. I sacrificed going out last night (and I'm broke) to wake up at a decent hour and headed over to Veletržní palác to check out some modern art. The place is huge, I believe 7 floors, and I slowly but surely made my way to three of those floors. I got really hungry right before Picasso happened. I was really proud of myself, taking the 22 tram and then transferring to the 12, all the while reading some Kundera. This is what the place looked like:

I ended up running into the UMiami girls I met at breakfast today and upon realizing we were all at the same hunger point, we finished up the temporary exhibit and headed down the street to Bohemia Bagel. I was there a few days before and had no shame returning. It's the only place that will give you unlimited refills of American coffee (at least what I've found thus far) and they make burgers with lamb - my absolute favorite meat. Great lunch, though there was guilt felt afterwards. (read: I'm broke).

A nap and cereal ensued before waking up and heading over to U Maleho Glena for their live jazz jam session tonight. Didn't expect the 100czk admission charge but times are tough, and people need to make a living a suppose. Gin & Tonic/Vodka & Tonic were disappointing but passable... hey, I have to ring in classes positively somehow right?! I had a good time though, it's so refreshing spending time with intelligent girls who appreciate the arts and are totally cool with staying in every other night due to monetary limitations.

Czech intensive starts tomorrow - I'm excited to finally start learning the language of the people who look like Russians, but actually want nothing to do with them. Still, my ears still perk up when I do hear the rare case of Russian being spoken. Except the other day on the tram heading to meet up with Brian and Patricia (Cross Club isn't worth writing about, at least not yet - I didn't make it downstairs to dance... but I did have one TERRIBLE mojito), I heard two Russians speaking quite uh, crudely about a woman's nether regions. Even mother would have blushed hearing that.

I do love it here though, it's hard not to with so much beauty around. And it doesn't hurt seeing the Prague Castle every day on my way down the hill. Not sure if it's Petrin Hill, but I see that too. Ah, Europe.

S.

Slowly but surely

So the past two days have been full of adventure, to say the least.


On Tuesday we went to Plzen (prounounced Pilsen) to check out the museum and then the brewery. Before that we went to the synogauge (though the name escapes me right now). If it was a little warmer in there, the trip would have been much more enjoyable. Regardless it was depressing, hearing about how the Jews were oppressed in Plzen centuries before World War 2, and that the people of Plzen were allowed to decide what to do with the Jews. When they finally came back, they built this ridiculous synogauge (I believe the second larges in Europe?!) that was meant for a thousand people... and now only 105 or so Jews go to practice. That bummed me out, for lack of a better word.



The museum was cool... but it got very long. And I got very hungry. And uh CULTURE SHOCK ALERT: they took an hour and a half to get us our food. No exaggeration. Actually 90 minutes. And we made everyone else wait for us. And the food wasn't even that worth it. I was warned about this but as a foodie it's mind boggling and kind of offensive? I guess it's just how these Europeans roll. Also, we were on the lookout for Czech food and this bar served anything but. I got some cheeseburger that included a very overcooked piece of meat topped with cheese and then a whole lot more. I could not finish it. And I was very hungry.

Yesterday was a very interesting. For starters we went to Terezin, which was built long before World War 2 but was used as a transit camp and ghetto during. Most people were transferred to Auschwitz and Treblinka. I was doing well throughout most of the trip throughout the camp (the creepiest experience of my life) but really lost it at the museum. Something about standing alone in a corner, reading through quotes from diaries/letters and looking through pictures... I just lost it. It was brief and quiet, but there were tears.

"Work makes you free."

These were actual showers. I thought they were fake and got really uncomfortable but they were in fact real. Five people to a shower head, women got hot water, men got cold water, Jews got nothing.

I didn't include pictures of extermination sites because I couldn't take them. I felt wrong about them and when the tour guide pointed the places out it was nearly impossible not to reenact it all happening. Horrible.

Swimming pool made by Jews for the Germans

Original ovens from the crematorium.

We ended up getting back around and a couple of the girls and I decided to go get our tram passes for the next three months. I wanted to buy a one-way pass for the tram but it was already coming and the other girls told me to hop on. And we experienced the dreaded ticket-checker. They do not lie, they really do check for tickets. To make a long story short, we were all out 700 crowns a piece. Very awkward/embarrassing.

We finally figured out where the tram passes were being sold and once Lauren was first in line, the women closed the window and directed us to the sign that allegedly said that she takes a break for the next 30 minutes. Luckily there was a supermarket (in the subway?) and we were able to stock up on groceries. I made a joke about how I hope that they teach us food vocabulary in the Czech intensive classes... as I 'm nervous that I'm eating the wrong part of the pig. I don't see turkey anywhere and have come to terms with the fact that I might gain some weight from this influx of pork in my system. Sorry mom!

We got back in line and eventually all three of us got our passes. Finally! Now I can feel alright with traveling anywhere around Prague. The subways here are great though, so clean!

Then last night we went to Mecca and I'm pretty sure it was American Study Abroad Student Night because the downstairs was completely packed with Americans. I had a decent time, despite my non-clubbing attire. And mom, if you're reading this, can you send me some more clothes?! And socks! I was told to bring socks and I guess I really overestimated.

Anyway I had an okay time, the music was a bit too loud, the drinks were weak and expensive, and I eventually started to sweat given the amount of people packed together. I talked to an American and Australian, both either rude or very drunk. Regardless, no Prince Charming at Mecca. At least not last night.

S

A gold star day

A blurry picture, yes, but of Prague castle still...
Half of the walking group at Lenin Wall

All of my pictures are on Facebook but I wanted to include two of my favorites from the first album.

So yesterday we went on a walking tour with our house mom and it was honestly fantastic, a perfect way to get to learn the city. It was cold but still totally enjoyable despite my blisters at the end of the day. She took us to the monastery where they make their own beer and the walk just got more and more beautiful as time passed. Our walk with Zuzanna ended with spiced hot wine but we continued to walk further and literally ALL around Prague and eventually made it back to an American owned place called Saint Nicholas. Great pizzas. And there was live music too!

The only culture shock I've really come across was a couple of days ago when we tried buying tram tickets from a tobacco shop up the hill. The man didn't speak English well and we couldn't figure out that he was asking for more money. He started yelling to his female friend and basically it was a whole lot of awkward for ten minutes.

But Prague is really quiet. And we stand out because we actually talk everywhere we go. And yet. This city is stunning. I can't wait to learn my way around because I am completely lost. Thankfully I've been traveling with girls who can make their way using a shitty map.

We got our student IDs today and I'm excited to finally get a metro pass tomorrow so I don't have to worry about getting caught without proper ticketing. Tomorrow is also the trip to Pilsen and then the day after is the trip to Terezin, which I am really excited for.

I'm going to try and go for groceries - I think it's the lazy in me that would rather nap. But eating out in Prague (although definitely cheaper in the US) certainly adds up. We did stumble into a cafe today though and I had some fantastic crepes and a great cappuccino. I shall miss these prices when it's time to go back to the states.

I am leaving for London to see Erin in a couple of weeks and slowly but surely I need to make plans to go to Rome and Vienna since I have friends living there as well. Will definitely want to see Switzerland, France, and Germany as well. I might max out at 6 or 7 countries. Financial woes suck.

Regardless things are better. Definitely. I stayed in last night in lieu of going out for the super bowl game and am glad I did - everyone was falling asleep at orientation today. Though it's just the beginning, I really like the people here. This might change as everyone starts falling into their own respective groups and cliques but as of right now everyone seems open minded and interested in doing cultural things as well. And I, in turn, will try to be more open minded about those smoky pubs I keep trying to avoid.

So excited to try out the cafes though.

S.