Cau Czech Intensive, Ahoj... Everything Else

I did a lot of drinking this week... sorry, mom.

I went to U Fleku, Prague's oldest pub, with a friend I made on the flight back to Prague from London. Armed with a map, I was actually able to make it from the Marriott. And then I rewarded myself by drinking two of the most expensive beers I've had in Prague.. at a hefty 60 crowns each (less than $3). The place was cool albeit a bit of a tourist trap: long wooden tables, a couple of dudes playing the accordion and a tuba? trombone? Why do I not remember what either look like? Regardless, this place had some tasty homemade beer and I enjoyed drinking it (and the conversation) in a building dating back to 1499. You'll be hard pressed to find that in the USA...

Anyway, I had to call it a (relatively) early night because I had my Czech final on Thursday. It was harder than I expected but I made out just fine. I got an A, Ma. Overall the class wasn't too bad but I'm really glad it's over. I'm interested to see what "real" classes will be like. Tomorrow I have my first two (of three... I'm really working hard this semester) classes: one is a class showing films by women directors and the other is called Anthropology of the Image. I've never taken an art class before but I was told good things about the professor.

Back to my weekend. On Friday I met up with said friend again and we went out to this bar called Tretter's. According to the website it's a New York bar and overall it was absolutely fantastic. The drinks are pricey for Prague standards, starting at 135 crowns for a Cosmo but man these bartenders mean business. They are artists of alcohol and each drink was absolutely fantastic... all 5 or 6. I may have lost count. It was an older crowd, many foreigners all ready to drop some dough on some well crafted cocktails. It was standing room only at first but we eventually got a seat next to a very uh, friendly Swiss man.

On my way to Tretter's (again, using a map... I'm getting really good), I discovered that my school is in an absolutely amazing location. Just behind Charles University is Paris St., which I guess is equivalent to the 5th of New York. I can't wait to show my family. I also passed the Old Jewish quarter and I am so excited to check it out once the weather gets a little bit nicer. It's been rainy and drab and not okay.

Prague is absolutely magical at night.

Nicole, Kelly (one of my roommates), and I at U Sudu

Saturday night I met up with my roommates and other friends at U Sudu and the only way to really describe this place is... the past home of dragons. Dungeons galore. After making our way downstairs I was relieved to see tons of tables and tons of people hanging out, drinking some Pilsner. You know, the usual. I brought my friend again as he wanted to have a good time for his last night in Prague and he was not disappointed. It was overall a fantastic night except this Czech girl that came to meet with us got her purse stolen... I ended up finding it in the bathroom but everything improtant was taken out. I was really sad for her. She left her purse on the floor underneath her chair and still some ass managed to take it and rob her. I guess that's as dangerous as Prague gets, but still... that really blows. I would sob. I would sob uncontrollably if my stuff got stolen. This explains why I try not to make any eye contact with people (namely men) when I'm on the metro or the tram. It's been engrained in my head to keep my stuff safe so I don't take any chances and hold my purse to me like it's a child I'll one day have.

That was a really deep simile.

Aside from that, things are good. Unfortunately my Vienna trip was cancelled so I'll be in town next weekend while essentially everyone else will be traveling. I suppose it's not the worst thing, Rome is quickly approaching!

Oh and I've been getting really crafty with my food here. I made chicken cutlets last night without the handy help of a meat tenderizer and bought some limes to make a sort of citrus-y sauce. I really miss having an oven. And you know, Peapod. This whole process of carrying all my groceries back with an unsexy backpack is kind of exhausting. But I'm kind of roughing it here in Prague.

And it's all good.

Here's to a good first week of classes, and whatever this weekend brings.

S.

My post Post-London

Maybe I put too much effort into uploading my pictures online because this has taken me forever to get together. I could do without posting pictures on the blog but I know my mom reads this semi-frequently and luckily I have a mom who hasn't joined the Facebook ranks. Let's hope it stays that way.

So as you all know, I was in London this weekend to ring in Erin's 21st birthday. I had a fantastic time. There's nothing quite like having three of your best friends greeting you (with a name tag) as you make your way into the gigantic Liverpool Street Station. It was wonderful. Though I do love being in Prague and I've met some incredible girls that I'm quite certain will stay my friends well after this trip, it was amazing to run into the arms (cheesy) of friends who knew me "before Prague."

I decided to be a budget-conscious traveler and took public transportation to Ruzyne airport. That's tram, metro, and then a bus to the terminal. For the most part it went over smoothly except for boarding the bus... I had to stand. And I ended up accidentally pushing a Czech woman who gave me the stink eye for the entire half hour bus ride. And I gave her one right back. She smelled. I am so thankful that English can be found in all airports because my Czech is not strong enough to get around an airport sans English. The flight was painless and coming into Stansted was breath of fresh air. English. Everywhere. YES!

After meeting with Dan, Lindsey, and Erin at the station, it was time to take out some money and then time for food. I was hungry. They don't feed you on EasyJet in case you were wondering. We spotted London Bridge at night (gorgeous) and headed over to the bar where Erin's roommate James would be playing later that night. Dinner was greeted with some beers and my first taste of an English pie. So. Good. And again: the menu was in English. We went downstairs after and hung out and caught up and watched James's act. It was good stuff. I also learned that night that I will be joining Dan and Lindsey at their cooking class... IN ROME. Excitement could not be contained.

We took a cab back to Erin's and Erin turned 21 in the cab. And they drive on the wrong side of the road I don't care what you people say. The right side... is the right side. That is all.

Saturday was fantastic. I don't want to bore everyone with details (I seem to have blabbed on before), but we surprisingly got to see many of the tourist stops without the help of a double decker bus. That saved us 20 pounds right there. The weather was perfect and coffees in tow, I was able to stay awake for EVERYTHING. From Buckingham Palace to Big Ben to the ultimate touristy telephone picture to Picadilly Circus to... well as much as we could fit in approximately 5 hours. And I had fish and chips for lunch!


Speaking of that : I had no appetite for the first few days here in Prague but once my nerves settled down my appetite picked up HARDCORE. Between the few beers that I have a week and my inability to just eat salads and chicken day in and day out... I might be getting chubby in the CR. But in the words of my small friend Robin, "eh, you'll just lose it when you go back." Such wise words.



I had strawberry beer for the first time at a pub before dinner, a crazy Chinese dinner to ring in Erin's birthday, a pub after that, and then the sweatiest dancing ever at O Bar. Unfortunately it took waiting 45 minutes in the freezing London weather for a bus that didn't come until a few minutes before we got a super expensive cab back to Erin's. Gah London is so expensive.


But so clean. And yet it's beause the cleaning crew comes out at night as the bars are closing and people are stumbling their way (literally) to cabs or buses. It was the craziest thing I've ever seen, I felt like 95% of the city was completely wrecked, tripping, walking barefoot, or hanging out against buildings - because walking just is not an option. WILD.

Still, it was good to come back to Prague. I did miss it. I like the girls I've met here.


Life is good, even with a lighter and lighter wallet as the days pass.

S.

A brief hiatus

I'm flying out to London tomorrow for Erin's birthday weekend (and consequently, Valentine's Day) but I will be back Sunday evening and will fill everyone in! And of course I'll discuss my first week of Czech classes.

Cau!

My right hand is frozen - but I must blog

So to update (not that there is a ton):

Because this weekend was a free weekend to check out the National Gallery exhibits (and I'm broke), I decided to go. I sacrificed going out last night (and I'm broke) to wake up at a decent hour and headed over to Veletržní palác to check out some modern art. The place is huge, I believe 7 floors, and I slowly but surely made my way to three of those floors. I got really hungry right before Picasso happened. I was really proud of myself, taking the 22 tram and then transferring to the 12, all the while reading some Kundera. This is what the place looked like:

I ended up running into the UMiami girls I met at breakfast today and upon realizing we were all at the same hunger point, we finished up the temporary exhibit and headed down the street to Bohemia Bagel. I was there a few days before and had no shame returning. It's the only place that will give you unlimited refills of American coffee (at least what I've found thus far) and they make burgers with lamb - my absolute favorite meat. Great lunch, though there was guilt felt afterwards. (read: I'm broke).

A nap and cereal ensued before waking up and heading over to U Maleho Glena for their live jazz jam session tonight. Didn't expect the 100czk admission charge but times are tough, and people need to make a living a suppose. Gin & Tonic/Vodka & Tonic were disappointing but passable... hey, I have to ring in classes positively somehow right?! I had a good time though, it's so refreshing spending time with intelligent girls who appreciate the arts and are totally cool with staying in every other night due to monetary limitations.

Czech intensive starts tomorrow - I'm excited to finally start learning the language of the people who look like Russians, but actually want nothing to do with them. Still, my ears still perk up when I do hear the rare case of Russian being spoken. Except the other day on the tram heading to meet up with Brian and Patricia (Cross Club isn't worth writing about, at least not yet - I didn't make it downstairs to dance... but I did have one TERRIBLE mojito), I heard two Russians speaking quite uh, crudely about a woman's nether regions. Even mother would have blushed hearing that.

I do love it here though, it's hard not to with so much beauty around. And it doesn't hurt seeing the Prague Castle every day on my way down the hill. Not sure if it's Petrin Hill, but I see that too. Ah, Europe.

S.

Slowly but surely

So the past two days have been full of adventure, to say the least.


On Tuesday we went to Plzen (prounounced Pilsen) to check out the museum and then the brewery. Before that we went to the synogauge (though the name escapes me right now). If it was a little warmer in there, the trip would have been much more enjoyable. Regardless it was depressing, hearing about how the Jews were oppressed in Plzen centuries before World War 2, and that the people of Plzen were allowed to decide what to do with the Jews. When they finally came back, they built this ridiculous synogauge (I believe the second larges in Europe?!) that was meant for a thousand people... and now only 105 or so Jews go to practice. That bummed me out, for lack of a better word.



The museum was cool... but it got very long. And I got very hungry. And uh CULTURE SHOCK ALERT: they took an hour and a half to get us our food. No exaggeration. Actually 90 minutes. And we made everyone else wait for us. And the food wasn't even that worth it. I was warned about this but as a foodie it's mind boggling and kind of offensive? I guess it's just how these Europeans roll. Also, we were on the lookout for Czech food and this bar served anything but. I got some cheeseburger that included a very overcooked piece of meat topped with cheese and then a whole lot more. I could not finish it. And I was very hungry.

Yesterday was a very interesting. For starters we went to Terezin, which was built long before World War 2 but was used as a transit camp and ghetto during. Most people were transferred to Auschwitz and Treblinka. I was doing well throughout most of the trip throughout the camp (the creepiest experience of my life) but really lost it at the museum. Something about standing alone in a corner, reading through quotes from diaries/letters and looking through pictures... I just lost it. It was brief and quiet, but there were tears.

"Work makes you free."

These were actual showers. I thought they were fake and got really uncomfortable but they were in fact real. Five people to a shower head, women got hot water, men got cold water, Jews got nothing.

I didn't include pictures of extermination sites because I couldn't take them. I felt wrong about them and when the tour guide pointed the places out it was nearly impossible not to reenact it all happening. Horrible.

Swimming pool made by Jews for the Germans

Original ovens from the crematorium.

We ended up getting back around and a couple of the girls and I decided to go get our tram passes for the next three months. I wanted to buy a one-way pass for the tram but it was already coming and the other girls told me to hop on. And we experienced the dreaded ticket-checker. They do not lie, they really do check for tickets. To make a long story short, we were all out 700 crowns a piece. Very awkward/embarrassing.

We finally figured out where the tram passes were being sold and once Lauren was first in line, the women closed the window and directed us to the sign that allegedly said that she takes a break for the next 30 minutes. Luckily there was a supermarket (in the subway?) and we were able to stock up on groceries. I made a joke about how I hope that they teach us food vocabulary in the Czech intensive classes... as I 'm nervous that I'm eating the wrong part of the pig. I don't see turkey anywhere and have come to terms with the fact that I might gain some weight from this influx of pork in my system. Sorry mom!

We got back in line and eventually all three of us got our passes. Finally! Now I can feel alright with traveling anywhere around Prague. The subways here are great though, so clean!

Then last night we went to Mecca and I'm pretty sure it was American Study Abroad Student Night because the downstairs was completely packed with Americans. I had a decent time, despite my non-clubbing attire. And mom, if you're reading this, can you send me some more clothes?! And socks! I was told to bring socks and I guess I really overestimated.

Anyway I had an okay time, the music was a bit too loud, the drinks were weak and expensive, and I eventually started to sweat given the amount of people packed together. I talked to an American and Australian, both either rude or very drunk. Regardless, no Prince Charming at Mecca. At least not last night.

S

A gold star day

A blurry picture, yes, but of Prague castle still...
Half of the walking group at Lenin Wall

All of my pictures are on Facebook but I wanted to include two of my favorites from the first album.

So yesterday we went on a walking tour with our house mom and it was honestly fantastic, a perfect way to get to learn the city. It was cold but still totally enjoyable despite my blisters at the end of the day. She took us to the monastery where they make their own beer and the walk just got more and more beautiful as time passed. Our walk with Zuzanna ended with spiced hot wine but we continued to walk further and literally ALL around Prague and eventually made it back to an American owned place called Saint Nicholas. Great pizzas. And there was live music too!

The only culture shock I've really come across was a couple of days ago when we tried buying tram tickets from a tobacco shop up the hill. The man didn't speak English well and we couldn't figure out that he was asking for more money. He started yelling to his female friend and basically it was a whole lot of awkward for ten minutes.

But Prague is really quiet. And we stand out because we actually talk everywhere we go. And yet. This city is stunning. I can't wait to learn my way around because I am completely lost. Thankfully I've been traveling with girls who can make their way using a shitty map.

We got our student IDs today and I'm excited to finally get a metro pass tomorrow so I don't have to worry about getting caught without proper ticketing. Tomorrow is also the trip to Pilsen and then the day after is the trip to Terezin, which I am really excited for.

I'm going to try and go for groceries - I think it's the lazy in me that would rather nap. But eating out in Prague (although definitely cheaper in the US) certainly adds up. We did stumble into a cafe today though and I had some fantastic crepes and a great cappuccino. I shall miss these prices when it's time to go back to the states.

I am leaving for London to see Erin in a couple of weeks and slowly but surely I need to make plans to go to Rome and Vienna since I have friends living there as well. Will definitely want to see Switzerland, France, and Germany as well. I might max out at 6 or 7 countries. Financial woes suck.

Regardless things are better. Definitely. I stayed in last night in lieu of going out for the super bowl game and am glad I did - everyone was falling asleep at orientation today. Though it's just the beginning, I really like the people here. This might change as everyone starts falling into their own respective groups and cliques but as of right now everyone seems open minded and interested in doing cultural things as well. And I, in turn, will try to be more open minded about those smoky pubs I keep trying to avoid.

So excited to try out the cafes though.

S.