Monday, March 23, 2009

We're here. We're Gehman. Get used to it.

So I got back from Germany last night and I have to say: I liked it. I liked it a lot. I had some pretty negative things to say about the country before arriving: Germany is ugly, the people are mean, the language is terrible, and they probably still hate Jews. Well I'm still not Team German in terms of languages but it does grow on you after a while. And as for the hating-Jews part... I didn't feel that way at all. Preconceived notions are bad. I must learn to rid myself of them.

But seriously. Berlin is so cool. So cool. It's hard to say what drew me so much to it. It's a pretty laid back city. Lots of history, yes, even lots of bad history... but there's so much... NEW. So many modern art galleries with paintings I actually want to look at and gorgeous modern buildings made of glass and big broad squares. And it wasn't pretentious. I guess a lot of my feelings may be stemming from Paris the weekend before which I liked but I really loved Berlin.

(Synogague, it's a big one and it's important. But the name escapes me.)

The tour was okay, relatively painless. We went to most of the hot spots, the coolest being the parking lot that paved over the bunker of Adolf Hitler. And that's what I loved so much about Berlin. Even though there's history everywhere, even in Prague, the history here is tangible. The Holocaust wasn't a century ago, it was 60 years ago. That's two generations ago. My grandparents went through it. It still reverberates through me and I feel it at every memorial, every museum, every lecture. And there I was, walking the streets that 60 some odd years ago the Nazis walked, Hitler walked.. you get the point. It was wonderful and horrible. Simultaneously.

But back to the positive! I saw the Berlin Wall which was disappointing but necessary to see. And though the Story of Berlin museum was overall a waste of my 6 euros (the next day), it was pretty interesting to see what a real life bunker? nuclear bomb shelter? looked like. Living in Europe has brought out the history lover in me. I knew it was in there somewhere.

We found a Dunkin' Donuts! This is by no means exciting to those in the states but DD is not to be found ANYWHERE. Starbucks, sure, but Dunkin' Donuts? So of course I felt it was necessary to get myself a cup o' Joe from DD, a French Vanilla one to be specific, and the lady attempts to squirt syrup into my drink but doesn't really get much. Knowing I'll be paying for this either way I ask her to just squirt in some Hazelnut. And then I got the German stink eye which is far scarier than any other stink eye. I felt diminished. And really stupid. And she put milk in my coffee instead of cream and... enough. I don't want to talk about it anymore. It was a bad (expensive) experience.

The traffic lights are actual men wearing hats which I stupidly thought resembled long hair from afar which resulted in many people laughing at me. I wasn't wearing my glasses. And secretly hoped it was long flowing hair.
And curry wurst deserves its own paragraph:

Our tour guide Neil (who had the worst case of chapped lips I've ever seen) told us about curry wurst, which is really a sausage covered in ketchup and sprinkled with curry powder. It is divine. It may sound disgusting, but it is so so good, especially after a few rounds of mojitos. The woman at the counter may have been HELGA FROM SVEEEEDEN in another life but in this life she is that German lady who is really large but can serve you your curry wurst in 15 seconds. And will say bon appetit for good measure. I loved this woman. Apparently we lived down the street from one of the most famous curry wurst joints called Curry 36. And there were constantly people there, no matter what. Even after my falafel dinner Saturday night, I could not resist the temptation that is curry wurst. I had two. If I don't end up doing PR for high end hotels/restaurants in my life, I would be happy to travel and eat local food. Preferably with camera and a salary but we shall see about that. Amazing.

Saturday morning we drove to Potsdam and went to Cecilienhof which is the palace in which the Potsdam Treaty was signed. Luckily the audio tour was short and sweet and there was a lot to look at. I only managed one illegal picture but it's shoddy and isn't worth putting up here. But again I was surrounded by history and really that's what Germany is all about. Ahem, Gehmany.

We were then dropped off in the center of the city by the broken church (Jenn and I made jokes but it is in no way funny and it is sad that 90% of Berlin was flattened to the ground) and eventually made our way to the Story of Berlin museum which was mostly a waste of time but had its moments. Saturday night called for Reichstag! Such a cool building and I really appreciate their using the motif of transparency to show that they are, in fact, honest people. Or something like that. Whatever the case, it was a gorgeous building but it was really far too cold for my attire.

We missed happy hour by 15 minutes, had a mildly alcoholic drink each, and off I was for my falafel... and later on night 2 of curry wurst. Still just as good as the night before. This time, pictures were taken.

Despite the worst fatigue I've felt in a while (I would chalk it up to three weekends in a row of intense traveling), we all went out separate ways. Jenn and I had decided that the Pergamon was absolutely necessary and it was SO WORTH IT. They reconstructed the side of what they believe was the Pergamon altar and the amount of stuff they found is just unreal. Thankfully an audio guide was included in the price and I was able to sit and listen to the story unfold about the battles with the Greek gods. Sometimes I would get up and walk around the museum. This took much energy. Still though I did my fair shair of touring the museum and it was seriously one of the coolest things I've ever seen. It's up there with St. Peters.

Dresden was the second half of the day and I would have enjoyed it much more if it wasn't the windiest day ever. Unfortunately I was cranky and cold and didn't take in as much of Dresden as I would have liked to... but it reminded me a lot of Prague. And I keep looking at churches and I don't want to. Give me synagogues, mosques, huts with a stick figure... but no more churches. I need a break. Still though, a cool little city with a freakish amount of Russians strolling about.



Now. I finally get to relax and enjoy Prague for the first time in several weeks. Weather still hasn't cleared up but here's to crossing fingers for this weekend.

I can't wait for my family to visit so I can share all of this with them. As in the city of Prague, my life, my expenses...

S.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

28 hours of travel was worth it to see the Eiffel Tower


So as some of you may know, I took a 14 hour bus ride to and from Paris. The ride back was harder, we left Paris at 3PM and I was full of adrenaline from actually finding the bus (it was not at the bus station, just on the street) and full from my greasy Middle Eastern sandwich. I miss Middle Eastern food.

Getting there was scary, as any new international city usually is. I was dropped off on a street in the 10th district when I expected to be dropped off in Gallieni, the bus station. This completely thwarted my perfectly planned out itinerary to get to the hostel. But I managed to get to the hostel just fine, sweaty and really smelly. My first thoughts of Paris were "wow, it's really beautiful here, all of the windows have beautiful wrought iron terraces... I feel inadequate." And that's basically how I continued to feel for the duration of the trip.


Paris is very opulent, especially so in the city center (which I guess is to be expected). I felt that even in Montmarte, it was the Upper East Side in NYC, just elongated... huge glass windows, beautiful curtains, and so many dogs... But for such a classy city, it was hard not to notice the smelliest subway stations (very comparable to NYC) and dog poop everywhere. As our tour guide told us, "as you will notice, Parisians don't like to clean up after their dogs." No, no they don't. While the dogs are beautifully groomed and adorable, the image is tainted after dodging more than a few piles during my three days in Paris.

So by the time I was showered and ready to take on the day, it was about 4PM and I was in serious need of food... I'd avoided leaving the bus in order to catch up on some much needed sleep and was STARVING by 4. Luckily the man at reception spoke perfect English (and was, in fact, American) and directed me to this little place across the street that served me some fantastic Lebanese food... can't get that in Prague. I felt foolish just hanging out in the hostel waiting for the rest of the party to show up so I went on a walk and eventually stumbled into the Sacre Coeur. At this point, I'm kind of churched out... especially after Rome but I can still appreciate beautiful things. The view from up top was really nice though I couldn't find the Eiffel Tower from way up there. And as I made my way inside, this French man immediately appeared next to me and thought that I was the kind of American girl completely enthralled by a French accent. He creeped me out actually, and I told him I would stay in the church and listen to the mass instead of going with him to see the "painters" in Monmarte. Before I went out to explore Paris, the man at reception warned me about perverts. Guess I found one of my own.

There was also an Israeli living at the hostel who took a liking to me because he overheard I was Jewish and took me for a walk around Montmarte and took me to a place where you could see the Eiffel Tower all lit up from a distance. He bought me a drink and we discussed how different life is in America. It was interesting to hear an Israeli say he never wants to move back there again and will stay in Paris... despite having to learn a completely new language. That's one thing I can say I really love about being abroad... the people you run into are so completely fascinating to me and live what I deem really exciting lives. I met a Lithuanian girl yesterday from my Czech class and as we walked back to the metro together I couldn't stop asking her questions about life there... and what brought her to Prague... and I can't get over how all of these students learn English as little kids... Maybe it's just me.

Friday was a day meant for touring. We found a flyer in our hostel that said FREE TOUR which we were immediately drawn to.. sure enough, it's a free tour and the tour guide only works off of tips. We missed the first tour but were luckily able to make it to the 1 PM tour with full intentions of going to the Louvre after. The tour was 3 1/2 hours and man I felt it. So much walking. But it was good to kind of learn the lay of the city. A few things we just passed by but I guess I wasn't expecting too much from a free tour. And it was nice to catch up on some French history. The tour guide was handsomely rewarded.

I should also mention that we got crepes in a cone before the tour began and also found a Starbucks for Chris. So all parties were happy. I should also mention that Starbucks in Paris require you to make a purchase in order to get the password for the bathroom. So hold onto those receipts, friends.
So the tour ended and by that time we were all Eiffel-Tower crazy and made the long walk over and it was so worth it. Probably one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen, especially at night. We waited a significant amount of time to pay an obscenely large sum of 12 euros to go up top for about 15 minutes but it was worth it. When in Paris...
We collectively decided that the Louvre wasn't necessary and went to Musee D'orsay instead and even though I usually hate museums, the audio tour was really helpful and I'm thinking I should start doing that from now on. I was also proud of myself for recognizing certain artists and certain works of art. Then I saw Whistler's Mother and realized I recognized it from one of those Mr. Bean movies. But it's such a cool museum and I'm certain that I walked out of there considerably more intelligent. Or at least aware.

After the museum we all decided that one could not leave Paris without going to Notre Dame but unfortuantely all I think of when I think Notre Dame is the Hunchback. We went inside and it was perfectly beautiful and I appreciated it's Gothic architecture (thanks, Chris) but like I said.. I'm churched out.
The group split up and Chris and I walked down Rue Saint Honore which is the most expensive street in Paris, followed by the Champs Elysee. I was on a quest to find the Louis Vuitton store which we never made it to... but saw every other designer store in Paris. We later learned that the Louis Vuitton Megastore is not on Rue Saint Honore but on the Champs Elysee. Foiled. Also, I had big plans to get a falafel from L'as du falafel but then I realized it was a Saturday and that the entire Jewish Quarter was not open for business. Foiled twice. It was a good walk, however.

We reconvened later that night in Montmarte and looked at Moulin Rouge for a good two minutes for before exploring what I can only describe as dozens of sex shops. The fondue place I had so wanted to go to was of course packed and we ended our last night in Paris with an inexpensive dinner and some well deserved sleep.

Berlin this weekend and then I finally get to rest in the city I'm growing to love more and more as the sky clears up.

S.

Monday, March 9, 2009

In my past life, I was Italian.


Inside St. Peters... too many things to look at at once.


It's true. I'm pretty certain that in my past life I was an Italian. A constantly eating Italian, on a serious journey to find the best gelatto, the best pizza, the best cappuccino. And my name was still Simona. I met a Simona in Rome, she's one of the Italian teachers and today as I paid for my AMAZING cheeseburger at Fame Nero, the beautiful owner asked if I was Italian after telling him my name.

Italy is the stuff dreams are made of.

I guess everyone finds that one place when they're studying abroad that just leaves their mouth constantly agape. That was Rome for me. And I have a hunch it will be the rest of Italy, when I finally go back and see Florence and Venice and Milan and Tuscany and Capri and Sorrento and... you get my point. The people are full of love, the streets are lined with food, and the language. Kill me now and send me to a heaven where they speak in Italian. It's not just the words, it's the rhythm in which they are said. Beautiful. Bellisimo!

Thursday night we all went out to dinner and I experienced my first Italian meal. It was good but it was only to get better... as I would later learn. A few of us stayed out to grab a drink (Peroni is good, but Czech beer is better) and then called it a night.

Spanish Steps

Trevi Fountain!!
Friday was spent sightseeing. I got to see the Trevi fountain (uh, amazing), and the Wedding Cake, and the Spanish steps, and part of the Roman Forum and there was just a lot of walking involved. The highlight of Friday was the cooking class I was so graciously invited to. One of the best things I've ever done. Even though there were 14 people, I still had a fantastic time though I wish I could have done more food preparation. The menu: homemade lasagna, veal wrapped around mortadella, cooked Roman broccoli, and some custard dessert that tasted like melted strawberry shortcake with lady fingers dipped in pineapple juice. Love. Love. Love.



Saturday began with a wonderful lunch at a closeby piazza basking in the sun. I bought a bronze Om that I fully intend on nailing to my wall back at home. I'm all about peace and harmony these days. Om...

We went out fully intending to "rage" to ring in Dan's 21st birthday... but it seems as though my friends and I are the quiet type. Birthday boy fell asleep at the table. A raging 21st indeed. Still though, a lot was accomplished after dinner. Like peanut butter and Nutella crepes. And coconut and Nutella gelatto. A country for me, for sure.

Flash forward to Sunday: MAJOR SIGHTSEETING. We're talking the main hotspots aka Colosseum, Roman Forum, and the Vatican. St. Peter's Basilica BLEW my mind. Pictures don't do it justice. Neither do words. Absolutely, hands down, the most incredible thing I've ever seen. The Colosseum and Roman Forum were of course amazing but relatively speaking, St. Peter's is just not something that can be described. I shall stop trying.

View of St Peters from afar.

It's good to be back in Prague but my Czech Theatre class (I HAD to drop film) comes with a bit of work. Between actually going to class and reading the works, we're required to go see shows. I'm happy to do so, but it can get difficult scheduling around shows especially as new ones are popping up all of the time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a 4.0 this semester. I told my art professor that I'd like to write a paper on erotic art. You read that right, mom.

MAMA!

I wish I was back in Italy with the bestest friends a girl could ask for... but alas there's Paris to take on.


S.

Monday, March 2, 2009

My days before Rome

Awesome picture I snapped when I wandered into a church.

So I leave for Rome in three days and I am so SO excited... except I just realized that I left one of two important pairs of jeans at "home" and didn't realize it until I got to the laundromat. Damn the laundry gods! But onto more important aka serious things:

Classes started last Tuesday and they're interesting, for lack of a better word. It's been a long time since I've taken classes with NO reference to business WHATSOEVER. But let's recap, shall we? Tuesdays I have a film class that concentrates on women film directors from Eastern Europe. We watched a film called "Daisies" and it left me feeling very uncomfortable. I guess there's debate over whether the film praises feminism or not, but... it was really odd. Really trippy and focuses on these two girls who value nothing in life. Not men, not food, not nature. But mostly not food. Clearly the part that bothered me the most (obviously).

I have two hours between my first and second class so I spent it at Bohemia Bagel, that haven for us American students, furiously scribbling my reaction to that movie. Then came time for Anthropology of the Image, a class I really dig. The professor took us to this exhibit called the Prinzhorn collection, which is named after the German art historian and psychiatrist who offered a new way to look at the artwork of his mentally ill patients. It was really fascinating. I'm not a big art person but I love that my classes open my eyes to things I otherwise would not have found on my own. High five! Should be a good class.

My third and final class is called Global Perspectives on Critical Education and it's... a little out there. Even for me. But I was told the professor is really interesting and I'm interested in education for the oppressed. And that's basically it. I have to show up for each 3 hour class and then I get to come home Wednesday evening and hang out until Tueday morning. Really.

From left to right : Adam, Jenn, Carrie, Me, and Jess at Al Capone's Wednesday night

This weekend was a little lonely because mostly everyone was out traveling. I decided I needed to get out of my cave (there really is no better name for it... wait, maybe prison cell?) so on Friday I went to the Sex Machines Museum because that's really the only kind of museum I could get through without having to leave early for a lunch break. It's sad, isn't it? It was a little overpriced but overall I was pretty interested the entire time. Before the museum I went out to lunch with one of my roommates and while the food was great, there were pitchers of FREE TAP WATER at all of the tables. It's the strange things that you really start missing. I also miss cold water, as something happened to our sink and now washing dishes also means braving second degree burns. But that is neither here nor there.

I went to go see Slumdog Millionaire Saturday night because a: it's cheaper here in Prague and b: I really didn't want to go out drinking - okay, I didn't have anyone to go drinking with. But Slumdog was totally fantastic and I'm still thinking about the awesome soundtrack. Go see it.

The weather is finally reaching the 40s and hopefully the sky will clear up ASAP. The gray weather really gets to you after a while. I find it kind of hard to leave and explore when napping sounds like such a better idea. Still, it will happen. There's still a lot of Prague left to see.

What Prague looks like on a nice day (Tyn Church)

And I finally booked my (bus) ticket to Paris. Oh yea, 14 hour bus ride... but it means seeing some besties in one of the most romantic cities in the world. I cannot wait to be classy in Paris. I imagine running down the streets, baguette in hand.

No, really. This is a picture that needs to be taken of me. Me. Running. In Paris. Baguette in tow.

S